Copia on the Corner tiptoed into Norman, Oklahoma much like Carl Sandberg's fog: on little cat feet. No large "coming soon..." banners, no "grand opening" festivities, no jazz band. Just a little storefront on Main Street that transformed, seemingly overnight, into a posh little haven of deliciousness. Sandwiched (pardon the pun) between tattoo parlors, the exterior is also less than remarkable. No flashy signs, no neon. But once inside all senses awaken. The interior is elegant enough that you feel special eating there; casual enough that you won't feel uncomfortable in jeans and sneakers. The paint is bright and cheery, the lighting dark and cozy. Tables are round and inviting.

The food is also a lovely mix of casual and sophisticated. For light lunchers the warm duck salad and the salad Nicoise are exceptional choices. It is rare to find a good salad nicoise anywhere in Oklahoma and this one can hold its own. And for a much more reasonable price than you are likely to find anywhere (if I recall, salad prices are in the $6-7 range). Some of the ingredients may trouble purists: grilled corn is used in place of the traditional potatoes, for instance, but for me the substitution gave the dish a delicious southwestern splash that worked well. The warm duck salad was also good, though perhaps better in its idea than its execution. Duck can be heavy, and with the goat cheese and dressing it became a little too rich for a lunch salad. (And dear me! the spinach was not as fresh as it should have been. Things like this make your delicate southern correspondent hyperventilate. Properly tended salad greens are the basis of modern civilization and all that.)

In addition to the salads, the menu also offers heartier fare: enchiladas, sandwiches and everything in between. Entrees are still in the same very reasonable price range ($6-9). So far I've explored the rotisserie chicken sandwich (yum! but also a bit heavy as it is topped with goat cheese and a bechemel type sauce), the calamari appetizers (yum yum!) and the towering chocolate extravaganza of death for dessert (yum yum yum!).

After one visit one of the owners came out for a visit and offered us a free sample of chocolate mousse as well. Not only was he a most genial host, the mousse was a knockout. So by all means, go visit Copia. Not only do we need to support, elegant, affordable dining in Norman, we also want to encourage places like this to stay on Main street where town and gown folk (meaning university types) can stroll in for a culinary getaway. Unfortunately, the hours are a bit limited. They are only open from 11-2, though will periodically open at night for special dinners and wine tastings.